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  1. Instantaneous Showers Today – Fitting A Shower

    Fri 28 October 2016

    However, an unhappy experience a decade or so ago with one of the early instantaneous electric showers need not deter you from having a modern one installed today. There have been some tremendous advances in design and construction and you can be confident that a modern model will work properly provided that it is properly installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Most instantaneous showers must be supplied with water at a minimum pressure of 1.05kg per sq cm (l5lb per sq in). They are intended for connection direct to the mains supply, though they can be supplied by a cistern if it is at least 1 O.75m (35ft) above the level of the shower spray. In most cases mains water pressure will be adequate, but those who live in an area where mains pressure is low should check the actual pressure with their local water authority before incurring the expense of installation. Fitting a shower Modern electric showers usually have an electrical loading of 6kW to 7kW and it is often possible, for the sake of economy, to switch to a low setting of 3kW or 4kW during the summer months Choose a model that incorporates a temperature stabilizer. This is an anti-scald device that maintains the water temperature at the level chosen by the user of the shower, despite any fluctuations in pressure which may result from water being drawn off from taps or by flushing the W.C. Should there be a drop in pressure beyond the capacity of the stabilizer, a safety sensor turns the shower off completely.

    When choosing your instantaneous electric shower, look for evidence that it has been approved by such national safety committees as the B.E.A.B., the National Water Council and the ANT. (Assessment of Techniques) Committee of the Institute of Electrical Engineers. Fitting A Shower Although instantaneous electric showers can be fitted over a sit-down bath, they are usually installed in a separate shower cubicle which may be in a bathroom, in a bedroom or even on a landing. The shower tray must have a trapped outlet and the branch waste pipe can discharge by the same route as basin or bath wastes. Plumbing connections should be straightforward. It’s best to connect the supply pipe to the shower heater first and then work backwards to the main supply, making this connection last of all. In this way you will interrupt the supply to the rest of the house as little as possible. The connection to the shower may be a simple compression coupling or it may have a screwed male thread. In which case you’ll need a compression fitting with a coupling at one end and a female screwed connector at the other. To connect into the rising main you should use a compression tee.Obtaining the power

    Instantaneous showers get their power from a separate radial circuit taken from the consumer unit. As most models of shower have a loading of either 6 or 7kW they can be supplied safely by a circuit that has a current rating of 30A and is run in 6mm2 two-core and earth cable. Recently, however 1 an 8kW shower has been introduced on the market by some manufacturers. This shouldn’t pose extra problems for anyone intending to install it: provided the radial circuit originates at either a cartridge fuse or MCB—which both have the effect of uprating the circuit by one third — then a 30A circuit will be adequate. Should you decide to install one of these larger showers then it’s still probably a good idea to check their requirements with the makers beforehand. Showers should be controlled by a 30A double-pole cord-operated switch. From this a length of 6mm2 two-core and earth cable will run to the shower unit. There is one type that requires a slightly different method of connecting up. If you’re going to fit a shower that has a control unit already connected to a length of three-core flex then you’ll have to fix a flex outlet unit on the wall near the shower unit so you can connect the flex into the circuit.

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  2. Installing A Shower Mixer

    Fri 28 October 2016

    Showers must have some kind of mixing valve to mix the streams of hot and cold water and thus to produce a shower at the required temperature. The two handles of the bath taps provide the very simplest mixing valve, and push-on shower attachments can be cheaply obtained. Opening the bath taps then mixes the two streams of water and diverts them upwards to a wall- hung shower rose. These very simple attachments work quite satisfactorily — provided that the design requirements already referred to are met. However, it isn’t always easy to adjust the tap handles to provide water at exactly the temperature required. Installing A Shower Mixer A bath/shower mixer provides a slightly more sophisticated alternative operating on the same principle. With one of these, the tap handles are adjusted until water is flowing through the mixer spout into the bath at the required temperature. The water is then diverted up to the head by turning a valve. Then there are manual shower mixers. These are standard equipment in independent shower cubicles and may also be used over a bath. With a manual mixer the hot and cold streams of water are mixed En a single valve. Temperatures, and sometimes flow control, are obtained by turning large knurled control knobs. Finally, there are thermostatic shower mixing valves. These may resemble manual mixers in appearance but are designed to accommodate small pressure fluctuations in either the hot or cold water supplies to the shower. They are thus very useful safety devices. But thermostatic valves cannot, even if it were legal, compensate for the very great difference of pressure between mains supply and a supply from a cold water storage cistern. Nor can they add pressure to either the hot or cold supply. If pressure falls on one side of the valve the thermostatic device will reduce flow on the other side to match it. Thermostatic valves are more expensive but they eliminate the need to take an independent cold water supply pipe from the storage cistern to the shower and can possibly reduce the total cost of installation.

    Where a shower is provided over an existing bath, steps must be taken to protect the bathroom floor from splashed water. A plastic shower curtain provides the cheapest means of doing this but a folding, glass shower screen has a much more attractive appearance and is more effective. Electric showers

    You can run your shower independently of the existing domestic hot water system by fitting an instantaneously heated electric one. There are a number of these on the market nowadays They need only to be connected to the rising main and to a suitable source of electricity to provide an ‘instant shower’.

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  3. Installing A Shower – Pressure

    Fri 28 October 2016

    The most important requirement is that the hot and cold supply pipes to the shower must be under equal water pressure. With a cylinder storage hot water system, whether direct or indirect, hot water pressure comes from the main cold water storage cistern supplying the cylinder with water. The cold water supply to the shower must therefore also come from this cistern (or perhaps from a separate cistern at the same level); it must not be taken direct from the cold water main. It is, in fact, illegal to mix, in any plumbing appliance, water which comes direct from the main and water coming from a storage cistern. However, quite apart from the question of legality, it is impossible to mix streams of water satisfactorily under such differing pressures. The shower will inevitably run either very hot or very cold; depending on which stream is the high pressure one. The cold water storage cistern must also be high enough above the shower sprinkler to provide a satisfactory operating pressure. Best results will be obtained if the base of the cold water storage cistern is 1, 5m (5ft) or more above the sprinkler. However, provided that pipe runs are short and have only slight changes of direction, a reasonable shower can be obtained when the vertical distance between the base of the cistern and the shower sprinkler is as little as 1 m (39in). The level of the hot water storage tank in relation to the shower doesn’t matter in the least. It can be above, below or at the same level as the shower. It is the level of the cold water storage cistern that matters. There is yet another design requirement for conventional shower installation which sometimes applies. This is that the cold water supply to the shower should be a separate 15mm (1/2 in) branch direct from the cold water storage cistern, and not taken from the main bathroom distribution pipe.

    This is a safety precaution. If the cold supply were taken as a branch from a main distribution pipe, then flushing a lavatory cistern would reduce the pressure on the cold side of the shower causing it to run dangerously hot. For the same reason it is best for the hot supply to be taken direct from the vent pipe immediately above the hot water storage cylinder and not as a branch from another distribution pipe, though this is rather less important. A reduction in the hot water pressure would result in the shower running cold. This would be highly unpleasant, although not dangerous.

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  4. Installing A Shower – Learn The Basics

    Fri 28 October 2016

    Showers have become a part of the modern home, whether fitted over the bath or in a separate cubicle. They save time, space and energy and are quite easy to install once the design is right. It is possible for four or five members of a I family to have showers in the same time — and with the same amount of hot water—that would be needed for just one of them to have a bath. Showers, if properly installed, are safer for use by the elderly and the very young than a sit-down bath and need less cleaning. They are also more hygienic to use than a bath, as the bather isn’t sitting in his own soapy and dirty water, and can rinse thoroughly in fresh water. Installing A Shower - Learn The Basics Where a shower is provided in its own cubicle, as distinct from over a bath, it takes up very little extra space. One can be provided in any space which is at least 900mm (36in) square, and can be put in a variety of locations such as a bedroom, on a landing, in a lobby or even in the cupboard under the stairs.

    Yet shower installation can all too often prove to be a disappointment. Poorly designed systems may provide only a trickle of water at the sprinkler, or may run icy cold until the cold tap is almost turned off, and will then run scalding hot.

    So, although it is possible to provide a shower in virtually any household, it is important that you match the shower equipment and your existing hot and cold water systems. If you have a cylinder storage hot water system, which is by tar the commonest kind of hot water supply to be found in British homes, a conventional shower connected to the household’s hot and cold water supplies is likely to be the most satisfactory and the easiest to install.

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  5. Industrial Strength Water Pumps

    Fri 28 October 2016

    The average person does not need an industrial strength water pump. They work the same way as the home pumps do, but they are capable of handling higher volumes of water. They also need to be able to handle more abuse than their smaller counterparts. An individual who has forgotten his grade school science may need a refresher about how water pumps in general work. They often work by creating a vacuum which pushes the water through the existing void. They are often used to move water out of lower places to higher places. The most common example of this is the sump pump found in the basements of many different people.

    Pumps generally need to move water uphill. Sometimes they just need to handle a high volume of water. The most visible application of industrial strength water pumps is found in the local amusement park. High volume, high speed pumps are used to keep flumes and water slides in working operation. Anyone who has been on one of these rides during a hot summer day have experienced the benefits. No one who needs one of these pumps wants to know this. They want to know what to look for, who the best manufacturers are, and how long they can expect the unit to last. Industrial strength water pumps are often ordered through specialty companies. The specialty companies can handle submersible pumps. They are used in the sewer system, they bring water through the cooling systems, and they can prevent boilers from becoming. The Zoeller Pump company is one supplier of submersible pumps. Designing the unit so it can be submersed in water extends the life of the unit. The warranty lasts for several years. When the unit does war out, it is easy to replace. The owner just needs to make sure water is not flowing through the pipes during the repair process.

    There are many other types of water pumps, and not everyone a person comes across is industrial strength. A person who buys a pump from their local Big Box store. If someone really needs to get a pump in a hurry, they can use their Shop Vac, but only certain product models are designed to do this. Even though they are designed to do this, they are not designed to be used as a pump for a long time. The company only expects them to be used as a backup system in emergency situations.

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  6. Humidifiers and Dehumidifiers, the Perfect Breeding Ground For Mold

    Fri 28 October 2016

    A dehumidifier is great at temporarily removing the excess moisture from the air in your home. What differ dehumidifiers from humidifiers is that it gets rid of moisture while humidifiers add moisture to the air when the air becomes too dry. Both types can have problems with the buildup of molds, bacteria and algae because of its standing water. You need to clean up the standing water in your humidifier or dehumidifier at least once a month. This way, you can prevent the growth of these microorganisms. Humidifiers and Dehumidifiers, the Perfect Breeding Ground For Mold Health benefits are plentiful in both units. The dehumidifiers are removing the excess moisture thus preventing its accumulation in homes. The humidifiers, on the other hand, adds the moisture when the air becomes too dry usually during the winter months so you won’t end up with dry skin, nose, throat and lips. People with sinusitis know how horrible it can get during the winter season because of the dry air. Drinking plenty of water can help but you’d still feel the effects of dry air.

    There are different kinds available on these units. Some of the best humidifiers and dehumidifiers keep microorganisms in a low level because of its built-in Ultraviolet lights while others would require that you take off the tank and clean it manually with soap & water. Make sure you follow the instructions on the manual as to how you can clean the unit properly and how often so you won’t end up voiding your warranty. If you don’t have its manual, give them a call or check for manuals online. Other companies offer their services of cleaning it for you.

    Make sure at all times you keep your units clean whether it’s a humidifier unit or a dehumidifier so you can experience the health benefits that it can provide. Make sure they’re not within reach of children. Also, make sure you check if there are leaks as this can lead to mold problems. When you’re out of the house, make sure you turn the unit off to avoid leaks and make sure you keep them away from walls, drapes and other furniture.

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  7. How to go about cleaning Patio Doors

    Fri 28 October 2016

    With the weather and climate changes that occur throughout the year, you can expect for your patio door to have some build-up of debris and grime on it. Perhaps you are getting ready to have guests over and you want to tidy things up a bit; you should definitely consider cleaning your patio door and not just your patio furniture alone. Perhaps you have older windows that cleaning just won’t fix, well you can get them replaced quickly with experts like Roof Worx. As you read along, you will learn more about an effective way that you can go about cleaning your patio door. In your kitchen cabinet below or sink or in your garage, you most likely have all of the products that you are going to need to clean your patio door. With that being said, there is no need to run to the store. Vinegar is a good product to use for cleaning many things that have built up with dirt and debris, and it would make great use for cleaning your patio door as well. The first thing you’ll want to do is fill up a bucket or spray bottle with half of hot water, and the rest of it should be filled with vinegar. Adding some dish detergent to this mixture will also help to remove any tough dirt that has built up on your patio door. Newspaper For cleaning and wiping down try looking around your home for some newspapers. Newspaper is great to use on windows, and you won’t have to worry about just throwing them away to waste. Since newspaper isn’t quite as soft as paper towels you can also wear gloves if you feel that your skin might get irritated while using it. Get some help This entire patio door cleaning task isn’t something that you have to do alone. You can get help from your children or if you live in Ohio, from Columbus Ohio patios. This could ensure that the task is done not only quickly but more effectively. If your child is younger and unable to help with the cleaning process you can send them to throw the used newspaper away or to collect more newspaper where ever you have it in your home to complete the cleaning process. You also might have the idea of giving them a small section of the door that is easy to clean.

    Outside then inside When you begin the cleaning of your patio door, it’s best to start outside and then work your way inside. Make sure you have everything that you need to start the cleaning process so that you don’t have to make frequent trips to gather more supplies if you run out while you are cleaning. When cleaning you should start with one side of the patio door. Focus on spraying the area that you start with. If you have a wooden frame there is no need to worry about whether the vinegar is safe to use on it; it’s quite safe. As you start spraying from the top, you should wait for the solution to run down to the bottom of the frame before you begin wiping. Once it has run down you can now begin wiping the area that you just sprayed with the newspaper.

    After you have completed cleaning this section of the frame/door, you can now repeat the process with the rest of the door until it is fully clean.

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  8. How To Fix Blockages Below Ground

    Fri 28 October 2016

    A blockage in the underground drains may be shown up by a WC which, when flushed, fills with water almost to the rim and then very slowly subsides, or by dirty water seeping from under a manhole cover. You’ll need a set of drain rods to clear any underground blockage. It is best to hire these from a local tool hire firm if and when the emergency arises. A drain that blocks sufficiently frequently to justify the purchase of a set of rods undoubtedly has a major defect that needs professional advice and attention. Raising the manhole covers will give you an indication of the position of the blockage. If, for instance, the manhole near your front boundary is empty, but the one beside the house into which the soil pipe and yard gully discharges is flooded, then the blockage must be between these two manholes. Screw two or three lengths of drain-rod together, add the appropriate accessory to one end and then lower it into the flooded manhole. How To Fix Blockages Below Ground Feel for the drain half-channel at its base and push the rod end along it and into the drain towards the obstruction. Screw on extra rods as necessary until you reach and clear the blockage. You may find it easier to push the rods into the drain — and to extract them again if you twist them as you do so Always twist in a clockwise direction. If you twist anti-clockwise the rods will unscrew and one or more lengths will be left irretrievably in the drain. Many older houses have intercepting traps. These traps, which were intended to keep sewer gases out of the house drains, are the commonest site of drain blockage. You can see if your drains have an intercepting trap by raising the cover of the manhole nearest to your property boundary before trouble occurs and looking inside. If there is an intercepting trap the half-channel of the gully will fall into what appears to be a hole at the end of the manhole; actually it is the inlet to the trap. Immediately above this hole will be a stoneware stopper. This closes the rodding arm giving access to the length of drain between the intercepting trap and the sewer. A Blockage in the intercepting trap is indicated when all the drain inspection chambers are flooded. It can usually be cleared quite easily by plunging. To do this, screw a drain plunger (a 100mm or 4in diameter rubber disc) onto the end of a drain rod. Screw on one or two other rods as necessary and lower the plunger into the flooded manhole. Feel for the half-channel at its base and move the plunger along until you reach the inlet of the intercepting trap. Plunge down sharply three or four times and, unless you are very unlucky, there will be a gurgle and the water level in the manhole will quickly fall.

    Very occasionally, there may be a blockage between the intercepting trap and the sewer, and the point must be made that this length of drain is the house holders responsibility, even though much of it may lie under the public highway. To clear such a blockage the stoneware cap must be knocked out of the inlet to the rodding arm (this can be done with the drain rods but it isn’t the easiest of jobs) and the rods passed down the rodding arm towards the sewer. Intercepting traps are also subject to a kind of partial blockage that may go unnoticed for weeks or even months. An increase in pressure on the sewer side of the trap — due to a surge of storm water, for instance — may push the stopper out of the rodding arm. It will fall into the trap below and cause an almost immediate stoppage. However this will not be noticed because sewage will now be able to escape down the open rodding arm to the sewer. The householder usually becomes aware of a partial blockage of this kind as a result of an unpleasant smell, caused by the decomposition of the sewage in the base of the manhole.

    The remedy is, of course, to remove the stopper and to replace it. Where the trouble recurs it is best to discard the stopper and to lightly cement a glass or slate disc in its place. In the very unusual event of a stoppage between the intercepting trap and the sewer, this disc can be broken with a crowbar and replaced after the drain has been cleared.

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  9. How to Eliminate Mold Properly

    Fri 28 October 2016

    Mold can easily lead to several health problems, thus, it is potentially risky to stay in a house with mold in it. People of all ages, especially aged people, kids, pregnant women or those with various respiratory problems are exposed to high risks. To make sure you will not experience any health problems related to mold, it is vital to get rid of the mold as soon as it is noticed. The elimination of mold is especially important for those with some health conditions and respiratory problems and for patients suffering from cancer and following chemotherapy. If mold can freely spread in your home, the warning signs will be weakened and can make perfectly healthy people ill. Throughout the mold elimination process, a few safety measures needs to be takes, including the wear of protective rubber gloves, eye glasses and garments, which can be disposed when the job is done. Use a breathing apparatus or a mask to protect yourself from mold particles. If mold is everywhere and it takes several hours to get rid of it, make sure you regularly rest and get plenty of fresh air.

    Almost any place is good for mold to grow, if there is enough moisture. Having a proper HVAC system in your home can help keep moisture out of your home which will help keep mold out of your home. Such places include spaces with water accumulation or with high humidity in the air. Mold can be easily removed if you know what and how to do it. If there is water on the back of the walls, you should immediately clean it and dry it. If you allow water to accumulate, mold will soon start to grow.

    If you see water stains on the wall that is the sign of moisture within that wall. Mold can also grow underneath your cabinets, in the baseboards, in your carpet and in the backside of your vinyl wall coverings. These areas should be regularly checked and removed any mold as soon as you spot it for a moisture free and well-maintained area. Several people are quite sensitive to mold. Before you start removing mold, you should dry out the area. Thus, mold spores will not be spread by the wind and other areas will not be contaminated by it. When you start to get rid of the mold, it is important for you to wear some protective equipment such as gloves and a mask to avoid breathing in the mold spores. Keep in mind that solutions against mold are dangerous and powerful, so handle them with extra care.

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  10. How To Clear Blocked Traps

    Fri 28 October 2016

    1. Try using a plunger to clear blocked sinks, basins, baths or WCs. Cover the overflow with a damp cloth, then push the plunger down sharply several times. 2. If the blockage persists, you will have to open up the trap. Put the plug in the basin and have a bucket handy to catch the trap contents.

    3. In a confined space like this, you may find it easier to remove the next push-fit elbow before tackling the connection to the waste outlet itself. 4. With the trap fully dismantled, wash each component thoroughly to remove the blockage and any scum clinging to the pipe sides. Leave the plug in. 5. Before reassembling the trap fully, check that the next section of the waste pipe is clear by poking a length of wire down it as far as you can reach. 6. A build-up of hair and scum can often block basin wastes just below the outlet. Fish out as much as possible with a slim wire hook passed through the grating. CLEARING BLOCKED GULLIES 1. Both surface-water and yard gullies are easily blocked by wind-blown debris such as waste paper and dead leaves. First lift off the gully grating. 2. Try to scoop out as much debris as possible from the gully trap, either by hand or with an improvised scoop such as an old tin can.

    3. If the blockage is cleared and the water flows away, scrub out the sides of the gully with detergent or caustic soda. Clean the gully grating too. 4. Finally, hose the gully out thoroughly with running water. If you are unable to clear the blockage, you may have to rod the drain run from a nearby manhole.

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  11. How to Avoid Bathroom DIY Project Mistakes

    Fri 28 October 2016

    If you’ve decided to take on redoing your bathroom, there are some common mistakes that you need to avoid. Keep in mind that your changes will be a success or a failure, depending on how you approach them. Following are the areas you need to take most care in. Bathroom Tiles There are rules to follow since new tiles are the most noticeable change in your bathroom. The colors need to be warm but not too dark. Don’t give in to cold colors like aquamarine or bright white. Stay away from navy or dark brown tiles to avoid a dingy look. Earth tones such as beige and terracotta create a warmer look. The tile quality is also important in a bathroom. They must be completely waterproof. Keep in mind that floor tiles that have been polished and filled look great when they’re new and are affordable, but they’ll lose their appeal after a year or so. Laying tiles requires experience and skill. If you’re doing it yourself, be sure you know what you’re doing. The surface needs to be clean and sound. Never put tile over wallpaper, dirty surfaces, or flaking paint. Only use high quality grout. Un-sanded grout should be used for tile spaces over 1/8th inch. Always use silicone to seal the bath or shower tray. Just be sure to fill the tub with water prior to sealing it as a full bath stretches the sealant and causes leaks.

    Bathroom Plumbing The task that requires the most knowledge and skill in any bathroom DIY project is the plumbing. The first thing to do before starting any plumbing tasks is to turn the water off at the main source to the house. Don’t use too many fixtures unless there’s enough pressure. If you’ve got weak water pressure, consider getting rid of such things as a bidet and dual shower head, or you can route your pipes directly from the boiler.

    Never try to connect mismatched pipes. The diameter of 2 joined pipes must be precisely the same. In addition, never attach copper pipe and galvanized pipe together as the copper will corrode rapidly and leak. Use plumber’s tape, or Teflon tape, on threads to prevent future leaks. Bathroom Furniture Finding great bathroom furniture is very important. This is something to keep in mind as there are different types of furniture for different bathroom suites. Wooden furniture looks great in a catalogue but may not be advisable for bathrooms. Even the best quality of wood will suffer from humid air and warp. That’s why vinyl furniture works best in bathrooms.

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  12. How Should You Paint your Homestead Exterior?

    Fri 28 October 2016

    You can use a simple step by step program for the repainting of your home’s exterior. Since the texture of the material used for outer walls is different than the kind of texture you would find inside your home; that means that the painting methods will be different. Listed below is what you will need to do to ensure the best paint job for your home.

    1. Start things off by performing a full scan of your home. Look for any warped or damaged siding that may need to be repaired. Check every inch of the home that you wish to paint over before doing anything else. 2. Step two is to make sure that everything is cleaned off before you start. Take any prior paint off. You could use chemicals, or you could scrape it off. Just make sure it is smooth. You also need to pressure wash it afterwards. 3. After letting the house dry for a day or two, you will want to take a high grade primer and apply it to the outer layer of your home.

    4. Put tape over surfaces that you don’t wish to paint. You may need a lot more of it for an outside job. 5. After all of these steps have been followed, it is finally time for you to paint your home. Consider the technique of painting you will use. There are faster alternatives to painting it the traditional way, such as the Paintzoom. If you want to learn more about the Paintzoom, then you can look up Paintzoom reviews online. The internet has a lot of information on the Paintzoom including reviews, how-tos, and Paintzoom troubleshooting.

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  13. Heating Towel Rails and Their Benefits

    Fri 28 October 2016

    There is nothing better than getting out of a shower or bath and having a nice warm towel to wrap yourself up in. Everyone that has ever been to a high class hotel or resort knows that feeling of a warm towel after your bath, and many have wondered if there was a way of getting that in their own home. The good news is that there is a way you can get that in your own bathroom and save the money of going to a high end resort. This is where heating towel rails come into play.

    This is a new bit of technology that has become popular over the last few years that everyone should try to get their hands on. There are a few different types of rails that you can choose from, and it all depends on how much you want to spend. If you have the money to have a professional installer come out, then you might want to consider getting a plumbed in heated rail. These rails are tied into your homes heating system and have a separate thermostat for the rail itself, allowing you to set the temperature you want your towels to be. If you don’t have that much money to put into installation, then you might want to consider using the electric rail version. These are simple heating towel rails that allow you to plug in the rail in the nearest outlet and set the temperature for your towels. Not only will these rails heat your towels for you so that they are nice and warm when you go to use them, but they are also good at drying your towels after you have used them.

    This means you will have less mildew growing in them and they will actually become softer than by drying on their own with no heat. Now, you don’t have to use a hard mildew smelling towel because you had a heated rail to hang them on. These are great inventions that everyone should have installed to have that little bit of high end resort comfort in their very own home without the price involved. What more could you possibly ask for in bathroom décor than having nice dry heated towels?

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  14. Guide For Insulating Cold Water Storage Tanks

    Fri 28 October 2016

    When it comes to insulating your cold water storage tank and central heating expansion tank (if you have one), there are a number of options open to you. If your tank is circular you could cover it with a proprietary jacket consisting of a number of polythene or plastic envelopes’ filled with insulant; or you could simply wrap it up in a layer of mineral wool or glass fiber blanket similar to — or even the same as — that which is used to insulate loft floors. If, on the other hand, your cold water tank happens to be rectangular then you could construct a ‘box’ for it yourself out of expanded polystyrene, or buy a proprietary one ready-made. A proprietary jacket couldn’t be easier to fit: you simply pull it into position and then tie it in place tapes are sometimes provided by the manufacturer. If you have to cut into the jacket to accommodate a pipe, make sure that you seal it up again with plastic adhesive tape to prevent moisture getting in and the insulating material from escaping.

    Expanded polystyrene kits are so extremely easy to fit. Apart from having to fix the pieces of polystyrene together with tape, string or polystyrene cement, the only work you will have to do is to make cut-outs for the pipework. More work will be required should you decide to make your tank kit out of sheet polystyrene — but it would of course be a lot cheaper. If you decide to use insulation blanket to lag your tank then try to buy the sort that is bonded with paper as you will find it much easier to handle. Buy a roll that is as wide as your tank is deep if you can, as this will save you the trouble of having to go round the side of your tank twice. The thickness of the blanket isn’t critical, but blanket 50mm (2in) thick will give your tank adequate insulation and be easier to work with than a thicker one. However, it could well be that you have an odd roll or two of blanket left over from some previous insulation job; if you do, then use that rather than going to the expense of buying additional rolls. The top of the tank to be insulated must have a firm covering to prevent the water inside being contaminated by fibers from the blanket you are fitting. So if it doesn’t already have a lid, cut one out of hardboard, polystyrene or some other sheet material. Lagging a tank with blanket insulation is simply a matter of common sense. You cut the blanket to size, drape it round the side of the tank, and having cut slits to enable the blanket to fit round the pipes, secure it with string. The lagging on the lid should overlap the side lagging by about 150mm (61n); and as you’ll need to inspect the inside of your tank from time to time make sure it’s easily removable. Under normal circumstances the bottom of your tank should not be insulated, nor should the loft floor directly below. The reason for this is that it allows heat from the house to rise up through the floor and slightly increase the temperature of your cold water. The only circumstance in which you do insulate these places (and this applies regardless of what form of insulation you are using) is when, in order to increase the water pressure for a shower on the floor below, the tank has been raised more than a foot or so above the joists. Insulating hot water tanks

    Although you could in theory lag your hot water tank by adapting any of the methods that are used for cold water tanks, in practice you will nearly always find that you have no choice but to use a proprietary jacket. The fact that most hot water tanks are situated in airing cupboards means that blanket insulation is out of the question, and unless your tank is a rectangular one (which these days are very rare) you won’t be able to use polystyrene.

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